They farm 5 hectares near Bedarieux in the Languedoc, and when I went to visit in spring, before the intense heat of summer had scared the green away, it seemed like paradise. They have little parcels of Cinsault, Aramon, Mourvedre, Terret and Chardonnay dotted across these rugged hills of chalky, clay soil. They are rightly proud of their vines and their work. The wines are floral and light, all hand pressed, never assembled together, each wine an expression of a vineyard, of a moment. - H.L.