Introducing
Karl and Eva Schnabel - Südsteiermark, Austria

Karl and Eva welcomed us to their beautiful corner of South Styria at the end of March 2024 when the cold of winter hadn't quite left the slopes of the Sausal mountain that juts above their home and cellar.

Their house was once a roadside inn started by Karl's maternal grandfather. Here, copious amounts of wine was consumed by local customers and in an astute act of business (and of course one of love) Karl's mother married a man from the other side of Sausal who had vineyards on the mountain. Together they took over the inn and sold the wine they made from these vineyards.

The vineyards are planted on extremely steep slopes and have never been treated with chemical pesticides or fertilisers, and since 1998 Karl and Eva have continued the vineyard work in what is in essence the traditional way. Treatments are made with minimal amounts of sulphur and kaolin, and there is emphasis on the strategic use of "tisanes" made from plants that grow in the vineyard; nettle, horsetail and yarrow which Karl brews in two 1000lt tanks. The five-hectare vineyard area is scythed by hand and though the middle of the rows is left uncut this is a task that requires serious stamina and no small amount of skill. 

The soils of the Sausal are very particular. The mountain itself is a formation that is older than the Alps and was effectively once an island and was never under the sea. Consequently, the soils are made of weathered primary rock of schist, silica and quartz - there is no limestone or clay! A relative rarity when talking about vineyards.

In March, as spring started to exert its influence on the vineyards, the profundity and diversity of plant and animal life in the vineyards was already becoming apparent, as was the relative barrenness of Koregg which has an almost mediterranean feel: here wild thyme abounds.

Since 1998 the three parcels Hochegg, Koregg and Kreuzegg have gradually been replanted with Blaufränkisch, Pinot Noir, Morillon (Chardonnay) and Rotburger. The Schabels spent time in Burgundy when they first took over the farm hence the plantations of Pinot and Chardonnay; their time there undoubtedly also influence their work in the cellar. Harvest normally begins towards the end of September and continues into October. Grapes are vinified by both parcel and variety, with maceration for white and red grapes for the duration of fermentation. The wines are aged in old oak barrels for a year or sometimes more and no sulphur dioxide is used at any stage. Bottling is done by hand after bottles have been rinsed in spring water.

The wines are wonderful and hold true to Karl's attention to detail at every stage. The white macerations are structured but have a lovely softness. The Pinot Noirs will appeal to and intrigue lovers of the grape but the Blaufränkisch perhaps transmits their work most expressively. We are delighted to have these wines, they are now available online and at 40 Maltby Street.

THE WINES 

Morillon Hoch 2021

From a small plot of Morillon (Chardonnay) planted in the Hochegg vineyard. Macerated until the end of fermentation, so around 2 weeks, then aged in old wood with occasional battonage for 1 year. There is an intense richness to this wine but it is not overbearing, everything is in balance. Perfect for the table.

Sauvignon Blanc Legionär 2021

This is made with fruit bought from a friend who works organically not far from the Slovenian border to the south of their own vineyards. The fruit is macerated until the end of fermentation so around 2 weeks then aged in old oak barrels with occasional battonage for 1 year. The maceration gives a lovely balance to the ripe Sauvignon fruit. Quite dense in texture and dark in colour but still has lovely acidity and minerality to balance out the heady fruit.

Rosé 2021

Direct press Rotburger (also known as Zweigelt). The fruit comes from the Kreuzegg vineyard which is dominated by siliceous primary rock. The wine is aged in stainless steel tank only which gives it a real freshness though there is a density and complexity to it that is really compelling.

Blaufränkisch Hoch 2021

Made with fruit from the Hochegg vineyard where the soils slightly heavier and dominated by iron-oxide-rich red slate. This gives the wines from here a wonderful irony, almost bloody, minerality.

Blaufränkisch Kor 2021

Again from Hochegg but compared with the Blaufränkisch this still has some irony minerality but more ripe fruit from the Pinot.

Blaufränkisch Kor 2021

Fruit from Koregg. The soils in this vineyard are poorer and the feel more mediterranean (wild time abounds) and this comes through in the wine which has a bit more warmth and rounded texture when compared to the Hochegg wines.

Pinot Noir Kor 2021

Also from Koregg. For the Pinot this lends a ripeness to the fruit but the tannins are still quite fine.