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FIZZ
Domaine La Bohème, Féstejar! Blanc 2023 (Auvergne etc. – Chardonnay, Sylvaner & Pinot Blanc, Chenin Blanc)
The lesser-spotted white Festejar! from Patrick Bouju and Justine Loiseau, this year made with Chardonnay from plots in the Auvergne and Limoux, a smattering of Alsatian grapes from their friends the Goepp brothers in Heiligenstein, and some Chenin from the Loire. A wonderfully celebratory fizz for the long weekend–fruity and bright, with a lovely toasty finish.
WHITE & ORANGE
Calvez Bobinet, Poil de Lièvre 2024 (Loire – Chenin Blanc)
Farming a few hectares around Saumur, Seb Bobinet and Emeline Calvez’s winemaking has incredible breadth: from thirst quenching, light and fun cuvées, to deep, grown-up and sometimes wild Cabernet Francs and rich, soulful Chenin Blanc. In recent vintages their Poil de Lièvre has morphed from a light and zesty Chenin to something with broader shoulders. This vintage is beautifully mineral and crisp upon first opening, and opens up into a delicate perfumed more unctuous wine with some time.
Jean-Yves Péron, Les Œillets 2023 (Haute Savoie – Jacquère)
It’s always exciting to include on of JYP’s wines in these boxes. He farms a tiny parcel of vines in Conflans high up in the Alps, producing extraordinary wines. Here the Jacquère, a distinctly high acidity Savoyard grape, is macerated in whole bunches for a month with occasional pigeage before ageing in large barrels for a year. The bright freshness of the Jacquère is still very much present, but the edges are softened by the bite and pith of orange and a nutty richness. This has enough body and texture to be drunk with food, but could just as easily be drunk on its own.
PINK
L’Absurde Génie des Fleurs, Ploum 2024 (Languedoc – Cinsault)
Tom and Miha farm seven hectares near Bédarieux in the Hérault department of Languedoc. This little corner of France feels closer to the Massif Central than the parched plains to the south; it is greener and cooler. This is mirrored in their winemaking style, which has a lightness of touch shown especially in this vintage of their Ploum. Mineral and herbaceous, with raspberry-like notes and a subtle hint of spice. There is a gentle spritz too, which gives the wine a lovely lift. We have our fingers crossed for the sun to shine on Easter weekend, so have this in the fridge and have a glass handy for the moment it pops out from behind the clouds.
RED
La Chant de la Lune, Amor Invictus 2024 (Ardèche – Gamay)
This is one of the new negociant wines from François and Francine Dhumes: three Gamays from three regions in France. Over the 15 years we have worked with François his winemaking has gone from strength to strength, developing his own style and this new project illustrates this wonderfully. This is the most fruit forward of the three we received, light and fresh with a savoury note. This would be lovely slightly chilled.
Simon Busser, Pur Cot 2022 (Cahors – Malbec)
When we last visited Simon we were reminded of his quiet, surefooted skill, both in the vines and the cellar. His vines sit in an enormous bend of the River Lot, planted on the old riverbed and cooled by the wind whistling down the valley. From 40 year-old vines, the grapes are macerated for about a month before ageing 18 months on old foudres. This is a wine we reach for again and again; there is ample body and depth, with soft rounded tannins, and a lively bramble-y fruit at the finish. A perfect match for the Easter table, especially if you plan on tucking in to some mutton or lamb.
(Selection subject to change due to availability.)